All Glossary

3D Design

3D Design software is used to create dimensionally accurate objects by sketching 2D geometry and transforming it using tools to rotate, extrude, sweep, etc. The software generates the polygon surface.

Key phrases linking here: solid modelling, 3d drawing, 3d design, cad - Learn more

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The biggest hurdle to adopting 3D printing is choosing and learning to use 3D CAD package. The processing power, multi-function mouse, connectivity and screen of a desktop computer are almost essential for this. And a desktop computer is generally needed to handle the 3D slicer software anyway. And 3D design software has decades of maturity on the desktop. Until now, Fusion 360 has been our choice, it seems ideal for individual designers and leaves me astonished every time I use it. OnShape seems to be the second option for independent technicians and hobbyists (because it offers a free edition) - the fact that it works in a browser brings a lot of potential to share a drawing for others to view and edit (they claim that multiple people can collaborate on the same drawing at the same time). If you are not easily intimidated, SolidWorks even has a free version for hobbyists now. Rhino for desktop deserves mention, it is popular in ceramic circles.

Some of what I just said is being challenged, 3D is moving to the iPad. As of 2022 Shapr is taking an industry-leading modelling engine, ParaSolid (the power behind SolidWorks), to the iPad. It also runs on desktop and enables working on the same design on both platforms. However, it is pricey given its capability compared to desktop options.

Choosing which 3D package to adopt is generally governed by what those assisting you are using (the complexity of learning this is not something easily done alone). As already noted, learning a 3D CAD software package can be the most overwhelming part of getting into 3D printing. It is vital to have a teacher (hire a consultant on Upwork if needed to guide you through a few design projects).

Related Information

Fusion 360, my choice for 3D mechanical design in ceramics

Intimidation by the complexity of this type of software is the biggest obstacle you will face to learning 3D design (for 3D-printing). Fusion 360 is the new mission of AutoDesk, the leader in CAD software for 30 years, bringing much of the power of their industrial strength Inventor product into the hands of everyone! Fusion 360 has a lot of advantages. It is a standard. There is a simple learning curve via their Tinkercad.com, videos on Youtube, easy online help and many freelancers to hire (at Upwork.com). It is free to qualifying users (teachers, students or people who earn less that $100k/yr), the fact that software of this kind of power and utility is actually available to anyone who wants to try it is amazing. Fusion 360 (and other 3D design products) cannot run 3D printers (3D slicers do that). Fusion 360 is very demanding on the processor and graphics hardware of your computer, typical laptops are not powerful enough.

Fusion 360 can also be used for modelling, but other products are better.

This drawing of a beer bottle demonstrates parametrics

This is Fusion 360. The profile was drawn and various measurements parameterized (shown in the listbox on the lower right). That means the measurements were given names (e.g. body_diameter, thickness). This makes it possible to change aspects of the geometry of this shape by just editing the parameters. If you are experienced in 3D CAD you will be able to see this drawing is actually beginner-level, I have not fully defined and constrained it. For example, I cannot change the height or width and have it maintain the shape when it redraws (to do the z-axis value of the vertical center-points of the curves need to be defined as a percentage of the neck height, and the neck vs body height proportion also needs to be set). I should also have placed the center of the lip at the origin. Further, it does not need to be hollow, it should be a solid body enclosed by the desired profile.

Drawing the 3D printed shell for a mug handle block mold

This was done in Fusion 360.
1: A make a sketch of a box, around the handle, on the XY plane. Offset that outward by 1.2mm (my printer prints 0.4mm wide, three passes give good strength).
2: Extrude to create box 1: The base backward by 1mm and the sides forward by 20mm.
3: Use five sides of the box as cutting planes to slice it out of the mug.

At this point I could print this in PLA filament, pour plaster into and then use a hair drier to peel it off. But let’s make rubber molds instead.

4: Move the box-with-handle away from the mug. Pull the four sides out by 5mm to thicken them.
5 & 6: Create box 2 around the outside of it, as a new body, 1.2mm wider and taller, 1mm more frontward and 1mm less backward.
7: Use box 1 as a cutter to remove material from box 2 and then pull the outer 1.2mm sides 5mm backward.
8: Shell out the back side to 1.2 wall thickness and make two 9.4mm holes (to accommodate natch clips).

To make side 2 mirror-image a new body using the front or back as the reflexion plane. The back side is then filled with PMC-746 rubber to make the block mold. Plaster is poured into that to make each working mold.

How to draw a case mold for slip casting using Fusion 360

Drawing your objects in CAD software is the most difficult step in leveraging 3D printing for slip-casting. In this 11 minute step-by-step video, we will draw a case mold, using Fusion 360. It can be 3D printed and plaster poured in to make a working mold. Mold soap is not even needed. This method of quickly making a pilot mold is well within the reach of almost any potter.

A parametrically-drawn cookie-cutter for slab built mugs

You may already know that I am very excited about the potential of 3D printing for creating aids to making pottery. I glue four of these together to create a cookie cutter for producing slab-built mugs. For different sizes of mugs I need cutters with different geometries. This is quarter-cutter and it has been drawn "parametrically" using Fusion 360. That means that certain aspects of its geometry (two lengths and one angle) can be adjusted by simply changing the parameters (in the Parameters dialog). The drawing then adjusts automatically. It is magic! Other aspects are fixed (e.g. the right-angle, the pucker-preventing hole cutouts, the height, and thickness). Parametric design is revolutionary, it fits my try-it-adjust-it-try-it-again way of working. And, I can label these printed quarters according to the size, in this case 45-25-108.

Bringing an old mechanical drawing of a crock lid back to life

This is an 85-year-old drawing downloaded from medalta.org. Medalta Potteries manufactured crocks, on a large scale, from the 1920s on. In this example, I imported the drawing as a canvas in Fusion 360, positioning it so the center of the knob was at the origin point. I traced the lid outline to create a sketch and then revolved that to create the 3D lid. This is part of a project to enable a potter to make lids to fit the old crocks.

Shimpo Jigger attachment drawing

Made from 1/2" x 3" flat steel, this frame is heavy and very strong and solid. The two larger 3.5" long bolts are custom-made from 5/8in-11 threaded rod, they have a 45-degree cone tip and locking nuts. The small vertical stopper-bolt is made from 3/8" rod. It is 2" long with 1" dia washer welded on top and a locking nut. The small bolt setting determines the bottom point of arm travel. The pivot sockets on the jigger arm are 1" long and made from 1" steel rod, each has the 45-degree recess machined into it. The arm can be moved left or right and its tension set by adjusting the two larger bolts. The weighted collar on the back of the arm employs two pieces of 1" thick flat steel, it is heavy (important for convenience-of-operation). The triangular notch enables the arm to be lifted higher. The weight colar needs some sort of set screw to hold it in place. A number of corners need to be rounded or rubber-padded for safety reasons. If you would like this 3D file in Fusion 360 and STEP formats, it is available in the Files manager in your Insight-live.com account.

Video: Create a cookie cutter/stamper in 3D software, print it and use it

This cookie cutter can both cut and stamp the piece (notice the 3D render in the centre, the logo is 2mm lower than that cutter around the outside). We make them by rolling a slab to 3.2mm (1/8in) thick, applying stretch wrap over it and then pressing the cutter/stamper into it (using a wood block). Then just peel away the plastic and the outer waste clay and a perfect crest is left. This method enables using clay of almost any stiffness. We find that softer clay works best, just peel it up from the board, apply slip to the back, position it on the side of the leather hard ware and press it down (from the centre outwards). On the lower right is a crested mug that has just been glazed. Upper right is a crest that has been glazed and fired. About the cookie cutter: We create them with 0.8mm wall thickness (twice the width of the 0.4mm extruder on the 3D printer). We export the vector image (made in Illustrator) into Fusion 360 and then add elements to stabilize and hold the profile in place. This cutter is 8mm tall and the stamp lines are 5mm tall. The crest is 52mm (2 in) wide. This whole process may sound a little intimidating to you - but we are working on a step-by-step video.

Magic tile shape grows organically, never creating a pattern

This is the most complex shape known that can fit together organically. It was just discovered by mathematicians in 2023. It is easy to cookie-cut these out of clay (notice the cutter I made at the top). Placing the tiles is tricky because it is only logical to seek a pattern, but that does not work. Starting with a center tile and moving outward in a spiral around it seems to be the best way. Mathematicians are seeking to prove that placement can grow infinitely without ever repeating a pattern. Making the cookie cutter in Fusion 360 was easier than expected because the shape is built from the pie-slices that result from cutting a regular hexagon into six pieces midway across the straight sides. Because of the complexity of the shape I have found that it is best to print multiple cutters (I can do eight at a time), and stamp the shapes without using stretch wrap (letting them dry overnight in the cutters). The randomness seems confirmed in that when I piece together a few dozen tiles it is very difficult to do a count (because they are not in rows). In addition, to piece together 28 tiles requires turning eleven of them over - if there was a pattern I would expect to turn over exactly half of them. One issue: To create a setting with straight sides it appears I will need a dozen shapes.

3D design, printing and use of a slip clay test bar mold

This is for making test bars of slip casting clays bodies for use in the SHAB test (to measure drying shrinkage, firing shrinkage and fired porosity). I designed it in Fusion 360 and 3D printed the light-duty rails and case mold. I poured plaster into that to make the two plaster working mold halves (top right). The funnels provide a reservoir so the bars be cast solid. This mold can produce a set of three bars in less than an hour.

Inbound Photo Links

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Draw a triangular plate press mold in Fusion 360

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