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2019 Jiggering-Casting Project of Medalta 66 Mug
A cereal bowl jigger mold made using 3D printing
Beer Bottle Master Mold via 3D Printing
Better Porosity Clay for Brown Sugar Savers
Build a kiln monitoring device
Celebration Project
Coffee Mug Slip Casting Mold via 3D Printing
Comparing the Melt Fluidity of 16 Frits
Cookie Cutting clay with 3D printed cutters
Evaluating a clay's suitability for use in pottery
Make a mold for 4-gallon stackable calciners
Make Your Own Pyrometric Cones
Making a high quality ceramic tile

Making Bricks
Making our own kilns posts using a hand extruder
Making your own sieve shaker for slurries
Medalta Ball Pitcher Slip Casting Mold via 3D Printing
Medalta Jug Master Mold Development
Mold Natches
Mother Nature's Porcelain - Plainsman 3B
Mug Handle Casting
Nursery plant pot mold via 3D printing
Pie-Crust Mug-Making Method
Plainsman 3D, Mother Nature's Porcelain/Stoneware
Project to Document a Shimpo Jiggering Attachment
Roll, Cut, Pull, Attach Handle-making Method
Slurry Mixing and Dewatering Your Own Clay Body
Testing a New Load of EP Kaolin
Using milk as a glaze

Making a Plaster Table

Below are a series of pictures showing how I re-poured the 350 lb plaster slab into a frame that my father made for Luke Lindoe many years ago. That frame showed no signs of rot, he had treated it with a preservative. The construction is ingenious, the 1x12 outer cap is fastened to the 4x4 legs and the inner 2x4s are secured to it. It is very strong, it withstood a lot of my banging on it with a sledgehammer to get the old slab out of there. This type of frame gave me a lot of flexibility during the pour. I was able to do it alone in a couple of hours. I poured 2-bag batches in succession, the previous just barely setting before I poured the next. I had a 20-gallon plastic container on wheels, so I could power-mix it (using a propeller mixer by our dust hood), wheel it to the table and use a bucket to empty it into the frame.

Related Information

Plaster table frame


The old, worn-out plaster slab has been removed (using a sledge hammer) and everything cleaned up. One cardboard insert has been put in place.

Detail of the corner construction of the plaster table frame


4x4 legs. 1x12 side. 2x4 cross members.

Inside detail of the construction of the plaster table frame


2x4s are nailed to the 1x12s along the length to support the 2x4 cross members.

A table frame almost ready to fill with a 7-bag plaster mix


A plaster table wooden frame with cardboard retainers stapled in place and ready for the plastic liner. This will hold a 350 pound plaster slab. That slab will absorb 100 lbs of water from a slurry.

Plaster table frame with cardboard liners around the outer edge


These liners have been covered in plastic tape. They extend 3/4 inch above the outside wooden frame. The plaster slab must rise above the frame.

Underside of plaster table frame with cardboard retainers in place


Each has been cut and folded to size and stabled in place. These will bear the weight of the plaster when poured.

Plaster table frame with plastic in place, ready to pour


The plaster will push the plastic into place tightly against the frame.

Plaster table poured and left to dry


The drying will take a couple of weeks. It can be accelerated using fans. The table is now very heavy, it cannot be easily moved. The plaster has found its own level, slurry poured onto it will not run in any particular direction.

Links

Glossary Plaster table
By Tony Hansen
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